How to eat a whole fried fish

Many of us who live outside of Egypt, may be used to buying and eating fish in our home countries. Where you come from, it might be:
• neatly compacted into fish fingers, frozen and stored in attractive cartons
• filleted, frozen in packets (looking very un-fish-like)
• battered and fried and sold over the counter wrapped in newspaper
• unrecognisably hidden in a bread roll, and called a fish-burger!

In Egypt, the culture places a high value on sharing food together. People love meal times, feasts and celebrations, which involve food of a variety of kinds. But generally what makes Egyptians eyes sparkle in anticipation, is the idea of having fish for dinner!

With or without salt?

With Egypt being placed where it is, with the Mediterranean Sea on the North, the Nile running right through the country and of course the Red Sea to the East, there is a wide range of fish readily available. These can either be fresh-water fish or fish from the sea. Where we are, in Alexandria, the fishermen unload their nets early in the day, and then proceed to try and sell their catch in the markets on in the streets, with loud shouts and tempting prices!

Where do you buy fresh fish from?

You can buy direct from the boats as the fishermen come in. But you will get a price that is as good or bad as your knowledge of Arabic. Or you can make your way to the main fish market. However, we suggest that you take a local friend to be your negotiator. In most suburbs you will find a small fish shop or 2 in the local souq (market) and there you will find a wide range of fresh fish from which you can choose.

Do not be alarmed!

If you order fish at a restaurant, you will see that the fish arrives on a plate looking like an actual fish! It does not come neatly packaged or unthreateningly compacted! The fish will be laid out in all its glorious fishy-ness:
• with eyes
• head
• fins
• feelers
• And tail
In fact, if you arrive very early, a fish or 2 will give the occasional jump from the presentation table. That is how fresh they are! But take courage, point to the fish you would like to eat. Fish is sold by weight, so all you need to say is 1 kilo or 2 kilo! Our favourite fish from the sea is either Aroos or Dinees. But many of our local friends love fish from the Nile. Their favourites are Bolty or Boorie. Our hint is that the bigger the fish, the easier it is to eat, but it will be more expensive. So place your order, and you usually have the option for them to clean and cook it for you. We suggest that you take the grilled option. They place onions, garlic, peppers, salt and spices and cook it whole, on the charcoal grill. If its a restaurant, it will be brought to your table. However, many fish shops will look and deliver to your home.

So when delivery time comes, your host will open a neatly wrapped bundle, and there lying in a polystyrene tray will be your fish: whole, blackened with cooking, but with a delicious aroma of spices and herbs.
Most of us from afar are at this stage might feel a little uncomfortable looking into the eyes of the dead fish on our plate. You might try and feebly poke at the fish, attempting to ignore the black eyes, tail and head. Perhaps you are brave and might timidly try to get a mouthful that has no bones! But usually this is not a success. Then you have to try and extract the bones from your mouth in a non-offensive manner, leaving your host wondering why you do not like their food!!

If you watch the average Egyptian, without much thought or effort, and usually accompanied by excited and animated discussions (as they are about to eat fish) they will have removed the head, tail, skin and have all the edible fish filleted and ready to eat within a minute. They will leave a wonderful fish bone skeleton behind on their plate

How do they do this?

We must understand that this is a way of life for most Egyptians, part of their culture. Many Egyptians have grown up alongside the Nile, near the Sea, or both! Children grow up watching their parents extricate fish flesh for them, and then usually around the age of 7 or 8 they are allowed to try themselves. There is teaching, heritage, skills and indeed specific family techniques involved in this process. Watch them, ask them to teach you and learn. It is a valuable skill. They will happily show you their way of doing it. Skinning and pulling the flesh off the bone is all done with fingers, not a knife or fork in sight. But don’t be put off: the fish is fresh, delicious and with be eaten with rice, bread and salads. And to top it all off (like the lid on a bottle, they say) you will be given tea.

After you have eaten, rinse you hands and then squeeze your fingers and nails with a piece of lemon. This will remove the fishy smell from them. Then wash your hands with soap. Your hosts will guide you!

And finally, lean back on your chair, feeling full and satisfied! Your hosts will be smiling with contentment, and very proud that you have shared in this, their favourite meal, with them.

Practice with friends, and hosts and when you are feeling confident enough, go out into public and choose the nicest fish restaurant Eat with a sense of pride that you have triumphed over the eating a whole grilled fish dilemma!