The glorious Gomesi: a dress made from bark

Bark-Cloth

Bark cloth has been made in Uganda for centuries. This is done by transforming the bark of the fig tree (Mutuba) into cloth. Using the Mutuba tree produces a wonderfully red-coloured cloth.

The process

1. Bark is cut from the tree in strips
2. Th outer bark is then scraped off using a knife
3. The inner bark is then rolled and boiled in water to soften it
4. This softened bark is then placed on a log and beaten with ridged mallets of a variety of sized groves: the first beating is with the heaviest mallet with the deepest grooves, ending with the lightest mallet with the finest grooves.
5. The bark is thinned and refined during this process. This continues until it becomes malleable.
6. The bark is then laid out in the sun for 2 – 3 days. It is during this time that it develops its characteristic red colour.
7. Patterns are then printed onto the bark-cloth, using a mixture of mud and water. Stamps of various shapes are designed and then dipped into the dye and pressed on the cloth.

Uses

* to divided the traditional houses into rooms, people will hang up a large curtain of bark cloth.
* a funeral shroud or a blanket
* book-binding
* dresses: many years ago, women used to drape this bark-cloth around their bodies. There were no sleeves, nor covering over the shoulders or arms, just large swathes of this cloth. It was tied around the waist with a long piece of string or bark-cloth. This was known as the SUUKA and was traditionally worn by the women of the Baganda kingdom.

The Gomesi

The traditional dress began to evolve. Apparently around 1905, a tailor from India/Goa, by the name of Gomes, was asked to re-design a uniform for a girls’ school. The girls had been draping large pieces of sheeting around themselves (Suuka style) but it kept slipping off during times of hard work! Gomes decided to switch from the traditional bark cloth and replaced it with cotton fabric, imported from abroad.

The new style of dress was introduced as a uniform at Gayaza Girls’ School but it was thought appropriate to introduce sleeves, to be more modest. So a square neckline with 2 buttons on the side was added, with sleeves to the elbows. A long sash was included to keep the fabric in place. The total length of fabric can be up to about 6 meters, as it is draped to the floor! The final change was when it was decided that the puffy sleeves should come to a pointed spike at the top, and hey presto: we have the modern day ‘gomesi’. This is worn by women all around Uganda today.

When is it worn?

The Gomesi is known as a dress that shows respect and honour. It is considered presentable attire when, for example, a young lady is going to meet her potential in-laws. Or if there is a wedding or special occasion (birthday, funeral, formal function, festival). Many mature women (ie: older) or in the rural areas, will wear it daily. But when the younger women want to impress, they will gladly put on their Gomesi: with brightly coloured, shiny fabric, with a matching sash, shoes, handbag and earrings.
This all combines wonderfully to make a striking outfit!

So when you travel Uganda, keep your eyes open: the spiky shoulder/sleeves, the meters of fabric and the long sash make the Gomesi dresses easy to spot!